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Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

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Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

Post by ymnyla Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:16 pm

Героиновый шик 90-х
сумки люкс
Женщина последнего десятилетия ХХ века получила в наследство рост, объёмы и полный чемодан несуразного великолепия 80-х. Но почти ничего из этих богатств ей не пригодилось. Мировой кризис конца столетия внёс в «чёрный список» излишества как таковые и безжалостно потрепал «иконы стиля», которые в прошлом десятилетии служили ориентиром для женщин и локомотивом для модной индустрии. Бизнес-вумен не справились с обвалом рынка, а супермодели оказались не по карману потерявшим богатых заказчиков модным домам. Минимализм — на марше. Но вы удивитесь, как много нового можно придумать в этой, казалось бы, безвыходной ситуации.
сумки люкс
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В начале 90-х грудастые идолы «порношика» ещё твёрдо «стоят на ногах» — и, глядя на них, никому не приходит в голову, что до смены эталона красоты остались считанные годы.  В зените славы  — певица и актриса Мадонна, которая,  начиная с 80-х , год за годом умудряется шокировать своими нарядами всё менее и менее почтенную публику.
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В 1990 году Мадонна отправляется в масштабное мировое турне, вооружённая полным комплектом сценических костюмов от Жана-Поля Готье, включая знаменитый корсет  — модный ответ дизайнера на  рождённую певицей в прошлом десятилетии идею избавить от интимности нижнее белье.
В 1990 году Жан-Поль Готье разработал для Мадонны несколько костюмов для её концертного турне «Blond Ambition», в том числе знаменитый бюстгальтер, чашечки которого были выполнены в виде конусов. Эта задумка великого провокатора сыграла важную роль в имидже певицы и её успехе у публики
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Но это уже последнее эхо не в меру изобильных и безцензурных 80-х.  «Эпоха потребления» закончилась. Модельный мир заполнили плоскогрудые красавицы, а «шик», — казалось бы, что может быть хуже приставки «порно», которую прикрепили к нему в прошлых десятилетиях, — теперь «героиновый». Несмотря на то, что регулярные занятия спортом в 90-е по прежнему оставались в трендах, внешний вид многих икон стиля «рекламировал», скорее, алкогольную и наркотическую зависимость.
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Конечно, новая политика сокращения ресурсов стала испытанием и для дизайнеров, и для модных домов в целом. Но те, кто смог принять этот вызов как новую интересную задачу, в конечном счёте выиграли: не потеряли прежних позиций, а кое-кто даже сделал стремительную карьеру.
Мрачное десятилетие
Смерть «эпохи потребления» наступила в результате целого букета причин, но главных, на мой взгляд, было две — по принципу максимального влияния на поведение конечного потребителя моды.
Причина первая: военные действия в Персидском Заливе. Война повлекла за собой экономический кризис, безработицу и резкий спад потребления. Перейти на экономный режим вынуждены были даже те, кто обслуживал клиентов класса люкс. Больше того, в 1992 году заносчивый Синдикат высокой моды (создан в 1868 году, объединял дизайнеров, создающих коллекции haute couture  — авт.) , узурпировавший право раздавать звание кутюрье, был вынужден ослабить жёсткие требования.  А т ребования эти, на минуточку, существовали с 1945 года .
Теперь, чтобы присоединиться к Синдикату, получить официальный статус дизайнера высокой моды и, как следствие, приписать определённое количество нулей к ценам на свои платья, модный дом или отдельный дизайнер больше не был обязан размещать все производственные мощности исключительно в Париже. (Эта «скидка», кстати, пошла мировой моде на пользу — получившие доступ к Олимпу иностранцы основательно расшевелили уже начинавшую увядать в судорожных объятьях французов гранд-даму.) Правда, чванливый Синдикат всё же не дал иностранным дизайнерам полных прав: в свои ряды принял, но оставив «большую разницу» между кутюрье из США или Италии и «настоящим парижским кутюрье».
Другие послабления касались количества швей — теперь их может быть гораздо меньше, а также доли коллекции, которая шилась «голыми руками» (раньше — не менее 70%). 
Модные Дома больше не диктуют правила. Эксперты прочат крах  haute couture ​. В первые за почти 50-летнюю историю модный дом Dior после показа просто отдаёт наряды стоимостью сотни тысяч долларов своим моделям.
Изабель Аджани для журнала Egoiste. Вот так представил в 1989 году смерть моды американский фотограф Ричард Аведон. Обнажённая Аджани закутана в «видавшую виды» дублёнку автора фото
Вторая причина конца потребительского ажиотажа — появление неизвестного прежде, поначалу невидимого и тогда однозначно смертельного заболевания. СПИД — жуткое похмелье бесшабашного поколения 70-х. Один за другим, часто в самом расцвете сил и карьеры, уходили из жизни самые яркие звёзды шоу-бизнеса. 
Первая в мире супермодель — американка Джиа Канджи . Брюнетка, которой удалось сломать монополию блондинок в модельном бизнесе конца 70-х. Завсегдатай клуба «Студия 54», она умерла в 26 лет. И осталась в истории как одна из первых известных женщин США, чьей причиной смерти был официально назван СПИД.
Дэвид Боуи : «Она из тех женщин, что держат полмира на прикроватном столике, но часто не могут справиться с собой, со своей красотой и властью...»
Джиа Каранджи: «У Бога на меня особенный план. Но не в этой жизни»
Фредди Меркьюри — британский певец парсийского происхождения, автор песен, вокалист рок-группы Queen. Умер от СПИДа 24 ноября 1991 года. Признался, что болен, за день до смерти
Рок Хадсон — американский актёр кино и телевидения. Первая знаменитость, публично раскрывшая свой ВИЧ-статус. Хадсон умер в 1985 году. Тогда никто не ожидал, что СПИД в 90-е выкосит большую часть богатых и знаменитых
Рудольф Нуриев — советский и британский артист балета, балетмейстер. Наверное, самый знаменитый «невозвращенец». Умер от СПИДа 6 января 1993 года в Париже
Майлз Дэвис — американский джазовый трубач и бэнд-лидер, оказавший огромное влияние на развитие музыки XX века. Умер 28 сентября 1991 от СПИДа
Мишель Поль Фуко — французский философ, теоретик культуры и историк. Дата смерти 25 июня 1984. Причина — та же
Эрик Линн Райт Eazy-E — американский рэппер. Умер от СПИДа 26 марта 1995 в Лос-Анджелесе
Чрезмерность сменилась минимализмом в мгновение ока. А минимализм, в свою очередь, также мгновенно сплотил своих современников под лозунгом «Просто будьте!».
Потрясения начала десятилетия избавили звёзд (тех, кому посчастливилось не уйти в мир иной) от маниакальной и ежесекундной одержимости собственным внешним видом. Теперь они — и к их большому неудовольствию журналисты глянца и таблоидов — гораздо больше сосредоточены на личной жизни.  
Растерянность в эстетике 80-х в 90-е сменилась полной растерянностью в моде как таковой. Но, на удивление, отсутствие чётких ориентиров подействовало на женщин умиротворяюще — они умылись, пригладили кошмарные начёсы и переоделись.
Наступило время простых форм — лаконичный крой, чёткий силуэт, минимальное количество декора и пастельные оттенки. 
Бытовой минимализм отлично иллюстрирует конкурс «Мисс Вселенная»,  а точнее его победительницы, которых мы продолжаем беззастенчиво рассматривать в качестве отпечатка общественной реакции на предлагаемые каждым десятителием новые эталоны красоты.
Финансовый кризис и «Мисс Вселенная»
В новое десятилетие конкурс прибыл не в лучшей форме: на станции «кризис» вышли не только стратегические спонсоры, но и большая часть прессы (сказались урезанные бюджеты СМИ). Не помогли даже безотказные в прежние времена «приманки»: какой-никакой юбилей — «30 лет на телевидении» и локация — Голливуд, как писали газеты, «единственное место в мире, подходящее для гламурного театрализованного шествия «Мисс Вселенная».
Кстати, именно в 1990 году на конкурсе появилась первая «Мисс СССР». Эта «премьера» была не единственной. В том же году за корону самой красивой девушки Вселенной боролась первая чернокожая «Мисс США».  Обе девушки, снова процитирую тогдашние газеты, «по политическим причинам» попали в первую десятку. «Мисс США» дошла даже до финала.
Открытие конкурса «Мисс Вселенная 1990» на сцене театра Шуберта. Демонстрация национальных костюмов
Журналисты вынесли минимализм на первые полосы:
«Победу в конкурсе одержала «Мисс Норвегия», в простом платье всего за $40 и без единой пластической операции(!)» 
Посмотрите на фото коронованной красавицы. Прототип — супермодель Элейн Ирвинг. 
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1990» — Мона Грудт. Справа: супермодель Элейн Ирвинг
Рассчитанный на массовую аудиторию конкурс «Мисс Вселенная», в отличие от творцов высокой моды, прозябал недолго.
Уже в 1991 году большая часть спонсоров вернулась, несмотря на то, что Война в Заливе закончилась всего за несколько месяцев до открытия занавеса сороковой по счёту «Мисс Вселенной». Место действия — Лас-Вегас. В тройке лучших — делегатка из СССР.  
Корону надела мексиканка Лупита Джонс. К чёрту географию: новая «Мисс Вселенная» из Мексики — точно сестра популярной австрийской модели Ирен Пфайфер.
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1991» — Лупита Джонс. Справа: Ирен Пфайффер австрийская модель
В 1992 году делегаток  «Мисс Вселенная»  впервые принимало Королевство Таиланд. Конкурс этого года за глаза называли «высоким»: средний рост участниц — около одного метра 80 сантиметров, средний рост местных женщин — около одного метра 50 сантиметров.
Корону увезла «Мисс Намибия» Мишель Маклин. Первоисточник образа — супермодель Карен Мюлдер, одна из первых «ангелов» Victoria`s Secret.
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1992» — Мишель Маклин. Справа: Карен Мюлдер, нидерландская супермодель
Титул и корона в 1993 году уехали в Пуэрто-Рико вместе с Даяанарой Торрес. По сей день она самая юная участница «Мисс Вселенная», перед началом конкурса ей едва исполнилось 18. 
Пресса отжигала: «Лицо невероятно красиво, но фигура... Как можно было победить с целлюлитом?!.»
Самой участнице насмешки не помешали сделать неплохую карьеру. Даяанара Торрес стала фотомоделью, а чуть позже начала сниматься в кино. Пробовала себя и на музыкальном поприще: в конце 90-х вышел её дебютный альбом «Antifaz». По её образу и подобию была даже создана кукла.
Сходство с супермоделью Стефани Сеймур очевидно.
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1993» — Даяанара Торрес. Справа: супермодель, модель журнала Playboy Стефани Сеймур
Удивительное рядом: в 1994 году победу сразу в двух самых влиятельных мировых конкурсах красоты — «Мисс Мира» и «Мисс Вселенная» — одержали... индианки. Обе девушки были далеки от стандартов роста и объёмов, обязательных для претенденток на корону.
У меня две версии этого победного дубля. Первая, естественно, политическая: в 1994 году Индия публично заявила о своих претензиях на постоянное членство в Совете Безопасности ООН, но так его и не добилась. И это при том, что её активно поддержали Россия, Франция и Великобритания. Даже Китай не возражал. Вместо постоянного членства в Совете Безопасности Индия получила от мирового сообщества в знак уважения и любви две короны.  
Вот они: «Мисс Вселенная» — 19-летняя «Мисс Индия» Сушмита Сен и «Мисс Мира» — «Вице-мисс Индия» Айшвария Рай. 
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1994» — Сушмита Сен. Справа: «Мисс мира 1994» Айшвария Рай
Вторая версия связана с влиянием на конкурс модных тенденций. В 1993 году  Жан-Поль Готье  увлекся этнической тематикой и ввёл моду на восточных красавиц. А его коллекция «Тату», презентованная в 1994 году, оказала огромное влияние на молодёжную моду. Готье смешал традиционные этнические костюмы Африки и Юго-Восточной Азии с эстетикой панков (татуированная одежда — вот кто это придумал!). Кроме того, Готье активно использовал пирсинг.
Журнал Vogue, апрель 1994 года. Коллекция Жана-Поля Готье «Тату»  
Погодим на секунду с «Мисс Вселенной», потому что уж очень тут к слову одно замечание, весьма важное для понимания принципа передачи эстафетной палочки от одной иконы стиля к другой в 90-е. 
Календарное деление на десятилетия мода не очень-то соблюдает. Первые годы следующей декады шлейф прошлых десяти лет присутствует иногда даже на равных с новыми тенденциями. Перелом случается примерно посредине. И чаще всего для этого перелома можно подобрать определённый символ. 
Для эпохи 90-х судьбоносным был 1994 год. Символ-указатель поворота — стёбный фильм «Высокая мода» Роберта Олтмена. Именно он, на мой взгляд, разделил время царствования супермоделей на «до» и «после». Это фильм о невероятной усталости от натиска модной индустрии, в которой эталоном женской красоты были недостижимые супермодели, самой оплачиваемой профессией — модный дизайнер, а место главного незабываемого шоу всей жизни занимало дефиле.
Софи Лорен. Кадр из фильма «Высокая мода», 1994 год
Теперь снова вернёмся к конкурсу, тем более что «Мисс Вселенная» 1995 года всячески подтверждает, что «диктатура» супермоделей закончилась. 
«Мисс Швеция» Петра Хултгрен получила на конкурсе приз зрительских симпатий и звание «Мисс фотогеничность» — ничего удивительного, учитывая её сходство с супермоделью Клаудией Шиффер, которая в том же году стала самой красивой девушкой в мире по версии журнала Paris Match. 
А вот борьбу за корону Петра проиграла вчистую, получив от жюри 48 (!) место.
Модель и актриса Петра Хултгрен
Корона досталась «Мисс США» Челси Смит — девушке, невероятно похожей на Джанет Джексон — одну из самых популярных поп-певиц своего времени.
В 1995 году Джанет и Майкл Джексоны закончили работу над синглом «Scream». Дуэт сразу же занял пятую строчку в чарте Hot 100 singles — впервые в истории дебютная песня так легко запрыгнула в пятёрку лучших.
Позже был снят клип, который попал в Книгу рекордов Гиннеса как самое дорогостоящее музыкальное видео — семь миллионов долларов — и за который Джексоны получили премию Grammy 1995 года. Советую пересмотреть.
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная» 1995 — Челси Смит. Справа: Джанет Джексон — американская певица, автор песен, продюсер, танцовщица и актриса
Как юбилей, так в казино — 45-летие в 1996 году «Мисс Вселенная» отмечала снова в Лас-Вегасе. Правда, без размаха 1991 года. Мультимиллионер Дональд Трамп только-только стал совладельцем конкурса. Трамп добавил этот актив к своим бизнесам, чтобы угодить очередной жене — Марле Мэйплс Трамп. Миссис Трамп на два года стала соведущей и распорядительницей мероприятия.
Корону завоевала «Мисс Венесуэла» Алисия Мачадо, которая была внешне очень похожа на звезду сериала «Спасатели Малибу» Памелу Андерсон —  секс-символ Соединённых Штатов. 
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1996» — Алисия Мачадо. Справа: Памела Андерсон, американская актриса и фотомодель канадского происхождения
В 1997 году «Мисс Вселенная» стала американка Брук Ли (уроженка Гавайских островов) — газеты писали, что она обошла других красавиц благодаря своему чувству юмора и непосредственности. 
Из интервью Брук Ли:
— Что бы вы сделали, если бы вам было позволено на один день нарушить все правила?
— Я бы съела всё на свете! А потом сделала бы это ещё! И ещё раз!
Мне же кажется, что корона досталась Брук в том числе и за сходство с актрисой Деми Мур.
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1997» — Брук Ли. Справа: Деми Мур. А начале 90-х она стала одной из самых высокооплачиваемых актрис в Голливуде. Из-за скверного характера, а точнее репутации стервы в Голливуде, получила прозвище: «Demi Moore - Give me more»
1998 год конкурс «Мисс Вселенная» встречал посреди Атлантического океана — на Гавайях, демонстрируя своё обновлённое благодаря наконец взявшемуся за него всерьёз Дональду Трампу лицо. Были потрачены колоссальные деньги, зал ломился от знаменитых гостей, а всё свободное пространство было буквально набито прессой.
Красавица из Тринидад и Тобаго Венди Фицуильям, которая в итоге завоевала корону, с первого дня привлекла внимание фотографов и стала любимицей публики. В финальный день конкурса, в кульминационный момент выбора между тремя финалистками, зал принялся скандировать: «Тринидад! Тринидад! Тринидад!».
Такого «Мисс Вселенная» ещё не видела. Как, впрочем, прежде не случалось и того, чтобы фото коронованной «Мисс» публиковал журнал National Geographic.
«Мисс Тринидад и Тобаго 1998» Венди Фицуильям в национальном косюме
На кого она похожа? Вы же это хотели спросить. Вот, знакомьтесь: писательница, модель и общественный деятель сомалийского происхождения Варис Дирие. 
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1998» — Венди Фуциильям. Справа: Варис Дирие, в 1997 году она оставила работу модели, чтобы сфокусироваться на работе против женского обрезания. В этот же год она была выбрана Специальным Послом ООН за запрещение женского обрезания
Последний конкурс десятилетия, да что там, тысячелетия даже, — прошёл на родине Венди Фицуильям в Тринидад и Тобаго.
Победила Мпуле Квелагобе из Ботсваны. Эта победа чернокожей африканской женщины в конкурсе «Мисс Вселенная» считалась единственной до 2011 года. Выбор судей можно понять — это же вторая Уитни Хьюстон, певица, которая в конце столетия зазвучала по новому: синглы «Heartbreak Hotel», «My Love Is Your Love» и «It’s Not Right But It’s OK», попали в пятёрку лучших чарта Billboard и стали международными хитами.
Слева: «Мисс Вселенная 1999» — Мпуле Квелагобе. Справа: Уитни Хьюстон. Практически невозможно найти человека, который бы не знал одну из лучших баллад всех времен «I Will Always Love You»
Новый центр моды
Именно в 90-х  Нью-Йорк  становится  третьей модной столицей. При этом он не просто удовлетворённо располагается рядом  с Парижем и Миланом, но начинает доминировать. 
Победу «моде по-американски» обеспечили джинсы. На спортивно-минималистичную американскую «униформу» — «футболка-джинсы-кроссовки-вазелин на губах» — в конце века обратили внимание люди по всему миру. Предприимчивые дизайнеры Нового Света вовремя поняли, что для крупномасштабного успеха одних идей недостаточно, — креатив нужно умело сочетать с маркетингом. Хороший отдел маркетинга может «раскрутить» любое имя и возвести в культ любой предмет одежды.
Ральф Лорен, Донна Каран, Кельвин Кляйн — новые покорители вершины модной индустрии. 
Именно американские дизайнеры приложили руку к внедрению в массы большинства новых направлений и стилей, которые теперь принято относить к 90-м. 
Как, например, стиль унисекс. Историки моды, естественно, начнут занудствовать и указывать на то, что зародился унисекс ещё в 60-х годах  ХХ века и что в 70-х андрогинный образ «продвигал»​ британский музыкант  Дэвид Боуи . Но кто превратил вычурную идею для сцены и подиума в ежедневный наряд всех и каждого? Правильный ответ: американский дизайнер и удачливый бизнесмен Кельвин Кляйн.
В 1992-м он в очередной раз потряс пуританскую Америку постерами, на которых сидели обнявшись полуобнажённые начинающая модель Кейт Мосс и рэппер Марки Марком. Оба, естественно, в джинсах от Calvin Clein. (Не могу удержаться, чтобы не рассказать, пусть хоть в скобках, о первой подобной выходке Кельвина Кляйна. В 1978 году, создав первые в истории моды дизайнерские джинсы, два года спустя он выпустил к ним рекламный плакат — фотомодель и актриса Брук Шилдс и подпись: «Ты знаешь, что между мной и моими джинсами ничего нет?...»)
С этого момента большинство молодых пар начали одеваться одинаково. Элементы мужского костюма проникают в женский гардероб и наоборот — по женским лекалам моделируется мужская одежда. Вторичные половые признаки вообще перестают подчёркиваться. 
Скандальный плакат с рекламой джинсов «Calvin Klein». Именно с него, а точнее с неё — Кейт Мосс, началась эра моделей «героинового шика»
Американцам обязана мода и триумфом субкультур на подиуме. Существовали специальные тренд-бюро, которые принимали заказы на исследование уличной моды. Тренд-хантеры работали (и, кстати, до сих пор работают) по всему миру. Их главная задача — собирать информацию о новых молодёжных группировках и подмечать на улицах и не только едва зарождающиеся тенденции с предполагаемым потенциалом. Всё очень серьёзно: фото, видео, примечания, эскизы, образцы тканей — заказчик получает идеально отобранное сырьё для коллекции.
Кто знает, может быть, идея появившегося в 90-е стиля гранж была подсмотрена тренд-хантерами в какой-нибудь из республик бывшего СССР. Уж очень похожа одежда дизайнеров этого направления на то, что мы носили по бедности после развала Союза.
Популярная версия отдаёт «авторство» гранжа на подиуме американской группе Nirvana, а ещё точнее — вышедшему в 1991-м видеоклипу на их песню «Smells Like Teen Spirit».
Неряшливость, нагромождённость, несочетаемость, впечатление, что наряд создавался с закрытыми глазами, — вот и весь гранж. Ах да, понадобилось ещё умение молодого американского модельера Марка Джейкобcа преподнести всю эту случайность как моду. В 1993 году Джейкобс создал первую гранж-коллекцию, которая произвела фурор.
Гранжевая коллекция для марки Perry Ellis в 1993 году сделала Марка Джейкобса знаменитостью
Модные «старики» тоже не дремали и, пытаясь быть в тренде, но всё же гнуть свою линию, взялись за панк.  Впервые эту субкультуру вытащила на подиум в  70-х  англичанка Вивьен Вэствуд. В  90-е  панк на подиуме возродили Версаче и Готье. В моду вернулись искусственная кожа и латекс, а обязательное для минимализма отсутствие украшений компенсировалось татуировками и тем, что выдавалось за пуговицы. 
С 1990 года итальянец Джанни Версаче был принят в Синдикат высокой моды. В 1994 году он ввел в высокую моду украшение панков — булавки
Одновременно сам панк в 90-е «выбросил новую ветку». В 1995 году на экраны вышел фильм «Хакеры», снятый в стиле киберпанк — начинается эра цифровых технологий. В главной роли ещё совсем юная Анджелина Джоли. 
Кадр из фильма «Хакеры». Основной слоган фильма «Hack The Planet!». Такое впечатление, что Анджелина Джоли никогда от него не отступала
Неагрессивную сторону минимализма представлял  пуризм, который ближе к середине 90-х становится одним из самых значимых стилистических направлений. В его основе — чистые и простые  минималистские модели. Главная задача  —  не украсить человека, а подчеркнуть его индивидуальность. Допустимы очень неброские аксессуары, а украшениями считаются очки, сумки и обувь знаменитых фирм — в зависимости от материальной возможности того, кто это носит .
Истоки пуризма — ещё в 60-х годах: его «проводниками» в повседневной жизни были актриса  Одри Хепберн и Джеки Кеннеди , жена американского президента. Пуризм 90-х на подиуме представляет робкая немка  Жиль Сандер. Этого дизайнера называют «папессой пуризма».
Творения Жиль Сандер. Слева модель 1997 года, справа — 1998 года
Облик десятилетия
Облик 90-х, окончательно сформировавшийся ближе к концу десятилетия, характеризуется двумя направлениями, которые были полной противоположностью друг другу: героиновый шик (в него в итоге тренсформировался гранж) и экологический стиль (результат развития пуризма).
Гранж был очень быстро освоен модной индустрией и запущен в массы — модели с обложек выглядели так, как будто их подобрали в первой попавшейся подворотне или только что сняли с электрички: со смазанным гримом, в платьях, больше похожих на обноски. К середине 90-х гранж достиг пика. Нужно было развивать тему.
Первое предложение поступило в 1993 году от Кельвина Кляйна (помните, он очень любит постеры). С рекламы нового, а теперь уже культового аромата от Calvin Clein «Obsession» смотрела очень худенькая и бледная девочка с огромными тёмными глазами, напоминавшая, скорее, ребёнка из приюта, чем модель. Это была Кейт Мосс. Кельвина Кляйна немедленно обвинили в пропаганде наркомании, педофилии и порнографии (чего, я думаю, он и добивался).
  
«Процесс пошёл». С этого момента уже необратимый ничем, включая публичное осуждение эстетики дизайнера лично президентом США Биллом Клинтоном. В моду мгновенно вошли тщедушные модели-андрогины.
Очень скоро героиновый шик перестал означать только стиль в одежде — он стал определять стиль всей жизни и требовать в качестве обязательных атрибутов реки алкоголя, невероятное количество наркотиков и беспорядочных сексуальных связей.
Её можно любить и ненавидеть, но она стала самой знаковой моделью нашего времени. На снимке Кейт Мосс
В моду вошли длинные футболки и майки-алкоголички как минимум на пару размеров больше, в комплекте к ним шли леггинсы тёмных цветов, подчёркивающие худобу ног, и очки в пол-лица, которые должны были скрыть от посторонних глаз расширенные наркотиками зрачки. Завершали образ всклочённые волосы. Роль макияжа выполняли круги под глазами и нездоровый цвет лица.
В 1996 году фотография обнажённой топ-модели Кристен МакМенами шокировала всю мировую общественность. Фотограф Юрген Таллер выставил на всеобщее обозрение её истощённое, покрытое синяками и шрамами тело. Этот снимок для журнала Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazin считается иконой героинового шика. 
Юрген Теллер о МакМенами:
«Я выбрал Кристен, потому что я сыт по горло работой с прославленными моделями. Вы видите её в очень многих журналах гламурную и отполированную, но она не такая».
Вот такой вот он, жестокий реализм против гламура.
Слева: Кристен МакМенами — фото Юрген Теллер, 1996 год. Справа: Кристен МакМенами на обложке журнала Vogue, 1995 год
Покончим с кошмарами и на закуску посмотрим на другое направление, которое развивалось параллельно с вышеописаным стилем, но, по сути, строго перпендикулярно ему. Экологический стиль 90-х подразумевал натуральность и свежесть, женщины старались выглядеть так, как будто только что из душа.
Среди тех, кто исповедовал этот стиль, создавать иллюзию привлекательности яркой косметикой считалось неприличным. «Эко-дивы»  конца столетия используют в макияже тени натуральных оттенков: телесный, бежевый, коричневый, оливковый и серый. Блёстки и перламутр — в опале. Тональные средства — только в крайних случаях (когда нужно скрыть пигментные пятна, например) и натуральных цветов. Главными символами экологического стиля в 90-е становятся голливудские актрисы: Джулия Робертс, Энди Макдауэлл, Дженнифер Энистон, Ким Бесинджер, Мишель Пфайффер и Шерон Стоун.
Макияж без макияжа — Энди Макдауэлл
Вот ещё что хотелось подчеркнуть. Именно в конце 90-х искусство красоты становится наукой: красота теперь больше зависит от интеллекта и информации, чем от количества денег. Масс-маркет тут как тут: практически в каждом модном журнале или на телешоу теперь транслируются профессиональные советы, с конкретными примерами «до» и «после».
Если бы это была сказка, с этого места все бы зажили долго и счастливо, но это мода, которая, как и любое сложное явление, едва устаканившись, немедленно начинает снова стремиться к хаосу. Общая минималистская картина уже в конце 90-х то тут, то там просвечивает чем-то подозрительным. Вдруг на подиумах появляется шокирующий розовый — цвет-находка кутюрье 30-х годов Эльзы Скиапарелли. Истинно, говорю вам, — верный знак того, что происходит поворот к экстравагантности.
Что же до эталонов женской красоты, мужчины (несколько отчаянных, точно знаю, читают эту статью) могут наконец-то расслабиться: всё вернётся, — и сверху, и снизу. 
И вот неоспоримое доказательство. В 1998 году киноиндустрия решила почтить память супермодели 80-х  Джиа Каранджи , которая, как я писала выше, была одной из первых знаменитостей, умерших от СПИДа. Главную роль в телефильме получила Анджелина Джоли. Киберпанк -хакер изменился до неузнаваемости. Вместо унисекса — один сплошной секс.
Анджелина Джоли. Кадр из фильма «Gia», 1998 год
Вот-вот стартуют  « нулевые » . Где мода,  кажется, решила начать сначала и прожить заново все возможные радости прежних десятилетий. М аятник набирает обратный ход. Начинается эпоха « гламура »: фигуристые и шикарные «голые» женщины с ярким пирсингом в пупке. Секс, секс и ещё раз секс — на улице, на сцене, на подиуме. Приходите, будет весело! Через две недели вспомним также накладные ногти, «кожи крокодила» и обязательный солярий. Подивимся готам, эмо и анимешникам, а ещё попытаемся разобраться, как мир докатился до того, что эталоном красоты стали персонажи компьютерных игр.
, но это последнее эхо порожденные звёздами шоу бизнеса, которые оголяли все возможные места на грани цензуры.  Но уже ближе к середине десятилетия правят плоскогрудые модели, представительницы «героинового шика» — измождённые нездоровым образом жизни, алкоголем и наркотиками.
Модным становится облик, который эксплуатировал самое сильное тайное желание женщины: желание похудеть. А из потребления остается спорт — ему уделяется значительно больше свободного времени, чем когда-либо. И точно так же, как и десять лет назад судейский состав конкурса «Мисс Вселенная» отдает предпочтение девушкам «в тренде».
Автор: Дуся Калашникова
Редактор: Дарья Юровская
Теги:
эволюция красоты , Мисс Вселенная , мода , мода 90-х , героиновый шик , гранж , grunge , минимализм , экологический стиль , unisex , унисекс , Элейн Ирвинг , Карен Мюлдер , Стефани Сеймур , Жан-Поль Готье , «Высокая мода» , Анджелина Джоли , Calvin Clein , Кельвин Кляйн
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Вадим Шевякин
24 августа 2013 - 04:03
Отлично же! посмотреть секс-символов 90-х, молодую Джоли - то, что нужно в четыре ночи)) Ещё крутые тёти - прототипы мисс мира, все милые. Таков мужской подход к "модным" публикациям, извините)) Элейн Ирвин и Деми Мур у меня в особом фаворе оказались)
Алла Мутелика
24 августа 2013 - 17:44
Брук Шилдс в 1978-м было не больше 13 лет. По данным ее библиографов в той самой скандальной рекламе Кляйна она снялась в 16-ть (т.е. в 1981-м)
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Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

Post by ymnyla Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:16 pm

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Вечерний Брест / Общество
15 сентября 2013
На прогулке с лесничим 15 сентября – День работников леса

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Беловежская пуща
великолепна во все времена, но сейчас, пронизанная лучами сентябрьского солнца,
она кажется особенно прекрасной. Мы едем с лесничим Сергеем Павловичем Слободой
по узкой (двум машинам не разминуться) дороге, и я не перестаю восхищаться лесом,
в котором уже бывала много раз и который при каждой встрече открывается для
меня какой-то новой своей стороной. Да и, по правде говоря, так далеко в пущу я
еще не забиралась. Мы направляемся в «офис» Ясеньского лесничества, который
отделяют от Каменюк, административного центра национального парка, 20 км. Деревья
вдоль дороги то плотно смыкаются кронами, и мы словно оказываемся в полумраке
туннеля, то расступаются, и тогда видно, как высоко вонзаются своими верхушками
в бездонное небо корабельные янтарные сосны. «Сколько тут живу, столько
удивляюсь этому лесу, какой он разный», – признается мой собеседник.


Полвека в пуще

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] У Сергея
Павловича с Беловежской пущей без преувеличения связана вся жизнь – за
исключением двух лет службы в армии. Родился в деревне Детоветчина Пружанского
района. В 1984 году, сразу после армии, пришел работать егерем в Ясеньское
лесничество – там в то время трудился лесничим его дядя Федор Константинович
Саевич, до сих пор живущий в Ясене. Был техником-охотоведом,
инженером-охотоведом. Тяжелая работа, говорит, столько стычек с браконьерами случалось…
Заочно окончил аграрно-технический институт по специальности «инспектор-эколог-охотовед».
10 лет работал лесником в Ясеньском лесничестве, с 2010 года стал лесничим. Живет
в деревне Ясень – малюсенькая такая деревушка в пуще, половина домов пустует. Вместе
с женой Аллой вырастили троих детей. Старшая, Наташа, окончила технологический университет
и работает у отца мастером. Двое сыновей-близнецов учатся на четвертом курсе
того же вуза. «Не надоедает все время в лесу? – спрашиваю я. – Неужели не
хотелось чем-то другим заняться?..» Слобода на мгновение задумывается. «Я,
наверное, везде мог бы работать, потому что с детства к труду приучен. Но тут
место какое-то… особенное. Дети пусть решают, где им жить и чем заниматься, а я
себя вне пущи уже и не представляю».



[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Ясеньское
лесничество, одно из 17 в НП «Беловежская пуща», было образовано в 1926 году.
Расположено в двух административных районах – Пружанском и Каменецком. Его
территория составляет без малого 9 тысяч гектаров, и большая ее часть – 5684 га
– относится к заповедной зоне, где запрещается всякая деятельность, кроме
научных исследований. «Что, даже грибы нельзя собирать? – не верю я. – Вот
увидите вы в этой зоне целую поляну боровиков – неужели устоите?» «Не увижу, – отмахивается
Слобода. – Смотрите, какое лето сухое. Ни в прошлом году грибов не было, ни в
этом».


В погоне за
зубром

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Свою территорию
он знает до последнего кустика. Говорит, раз сто исходил вдоль и поперек.
Знает, где растет трава зубровка, где можно увидеть целую поляну лекарственной
травы, которую в народе называют бальзамом за ее уникальные целебные свойства,
и где лучше подкарауливать на зорьке оленя, чтобы сфотографировать его во всем
великолепии. «Видите, – показывает Сергей Павлович деревянный столб, отмечающий
границу Ясеньского лесничества. – На верхушке вырезана фигура глухаря. Это
потому что у нас в лесничестве глухарей много было раньше. До 12 петухов на
токах собирались. Теперь все поменялось… Глухарь – он ведь ягоду любит, особенно
клюкву, чернику… А клюква низкие участки предпочитает. Помню, раньше за ней на
болота только в сапогах ходили. Уровень грунтовых вод снизился, ягоды почти
нет, и глухарь пропал…»


[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] В какой-то
момент буквально в 50
метрах от нас через дорогу стрелой проносится зубр.
Только и успеваю заметить массивную голову да темно-бурую горбатую спину.
Отбежав от машины на безопасное расстояние, зубр останавливается и смотрит в
нашу строну, слегка помахивая хвостом. Мне он кажется чересчур «поджарым». «У
них сейчас гон идет, – поясняет Слобода. – А в это время быки почти не пасутся
и сильно худеют».


[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Как и всякий
работник пущи, с зубрами в лесу он встречался не раз. Тем более что на
территории лесничества расположен один из зубропитомников, служащий в морозы подкормочной
площадкой для копытных, – этой зимой там кормились 36 зубров. Мы сворачиваем к зубропитомнику
и через 10 минут оказываемся на поляне с деревянными постройками. Лесничий
проводит небольшую экскурсию: вот в этом сарае хранится заготовленное на зиму сено,
вот ловушки для зубров (к ним прибегают, когда нужно отловить животное для его
отселения на другую территорию), вот – «ясли» для зубрят, взрослые быки в них
не зайдут и не отберут корм у малышей. А здесь – солонцы для копытных – вокруг
высокого, в полроста человека, пня, в углублении которого лежит соляной диск,
все истоптано копытами животных, которые и сейчас приходят сюда восполнить
недостаток в организме минеральных солей…


Этот вредный
короед

Следить, чтобы
на этих площадках животным было вдоволь кормов – одна из многочисленных задач
лесничего и лесников. Под началом Сергея Павловича их трудится 12. У каждого
свой участок, который надо обойти и убедиться, все ли в порядке. Деревья, к
сожалению, тоже болеют, и задача лесника – распознать симптомы заболевания и
сообщить о них в научный отдел национального парка, чтобы ученые правильно
подобрали «лекарство».


Один из таких
очагов заболевания – мертвое пятно среди зеленого великолепия – нам попадается
прямо возле дороги. С десяток высоченных елей стоят засохшими и растерявшими
все свои иголки. «А это бич наш, короед-типограф, – вздыхает лесничий. –
Периодически в пуще свирепствует, особенно если лето жаркое. А все почему? Опять
же уровень грунтовых вод упал, и ельники ослабли. В других зонах мы с короедом боремся.
Как заметит лесник первые его признаки – иголки с ели осыпаются, буровая мука
на земле – значит, немедленно дерево убираем и вывозим, чтобы короед дальше не
распространился. Ловушки ставим, чтобы этого вредителя отловить. Здесь же ничего
этого делать нельзя, потому что заповедная зона. В ней все должно идти естественным
путем, без вмешательства человека. Вот и засыхает ельник».



Тихий Ясень

«Офис»
Ясеньского лесничества встречает нас прохладой деревянного сруба и пустотой –
все люди на участках. Кто-то занят на расчистке бурелома, кто-то проводит
санитарные рубки в хозяйственной зоне, кто-то совершает обход своего участка. Мы
проходим по единственной улочке Ясеня и заглядываем перемолвиться словечком к
Федору Константиновичу Саевичу, которого застаем во дворе за работой. Ему уже
81 год, и хотя, вполголоса рассказывает Слобода, сердечко уже пошаливает,
выглядит бывший лесничий бодро. «А что вы хотите? – парирует тот. – Всю жизнь в
лесу. Много ходил, не курил, выпивал в меру. А теперь вот на молочко нажимаю!»


Потом неспешно
пьем чай в доме Слободы: его «девчата», жена и дочь, выставили на стол всякие
лесные вкусности. Тихо и покойно. Даже мобильник не звонит – сотовая связь в
деревне никакая. Однако по тому, как нетерпеливо поерзывает на стуле хозяин дома,
понятно – в действительности у него масса работы, к которой не терпится
вернуться. Самый старый равнинный лес Европы, «обласканный» престижнейшими
наградами и титулами, требует постоянного внимания и заботы тысячи людей,
которые работают в национальном парке…


По-хорошему
завидую – они каждый день видят такую красоту. С профессиональным праздником
вас!



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Елена Трибулева
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ymnyla
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Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:42 am


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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:43 am

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Fake Breitling Navitimer

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:43 am


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    HEilvéise macasamhail Breitling Fairí Sale
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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:43 am

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:43 am


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    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] | [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] | siopaí a dhíol jewelry tiffany
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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:44 am

    Christian Louboutin asraon
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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:53 am

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:54 am

    di alta qualità replica orologi per gli uomini | Movimento meccanico swiss replica orologi | Movimento meccanico swiss replica orologi
    Replica orologi di marca di lusso
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    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]La Replica Cartier PASHA-Series WJ124026 signora orologio al quarzoSeriePASHA Series Stile Forma...€7,260.42 €171.09Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier PASHA-Series WJ124027 signora orologio al quarzo[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]SeriePASHA Series Stile Forma...€7,766.69 €162.54Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier PASHA-Series WJ124028 signora orologio al quarzo
    La Replica Cartier PASHA-Series WJ124028 signora orologio al quarzoSeriePASHA Series Stile Forma...€3,986.39 €151.65Risparmi: 96% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier PASHA-Series WJ130008 signora orologio al quarzo
    La Replica Cartier PASHA-Series WJ130008 signora orologio al quarzoSeriePASHA Series Stile Forma...€51,203.23 €189.75Risparmi: 100% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier Ronde Solo de Cartier serie W6700255/W6700155 tabella coppia quarzo
    La Replica Cartier Ronde Solo de Cartier serie W6700255/W6700155 tabella coppia quarzoSerieRonde Solo de Cartier Series...€1,661.90 €189.75Risparmi: 89% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE orologio della serie WB520025 signora orologi al quarzo[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]SerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€10,408.47 €160.20Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE orologio della serie WB520026 signora orologio al quarzoSerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€9,696.89 €181.98Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE orologio della serie WB520027 signora orologio al quarzo
    La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE orologio della serie WB520027 signora orologio al quarzoSerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€6,339.65 €157.09Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE orologio della serie WB520028 signora orologio al quarzo[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]SerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€5,919.70 €139.20Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE Serie HPI00327 signora orologio al quarzo
    La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE Serie HPI00327 signora orologio al quarzoSerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€22,663.15 €154.76Risparmi: 99% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE serie W8000002 signora meccanica orologiSerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€5,707.39 €163.31Risparmi: 97% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE serie W8000003 signora orologio al quarzo
    La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE serie W8000003 signora orologio al quarzoSerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€3,441.23 €141.54Risparmi: 96% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]La Replica Cartier-BAIGNOIRE serie W8000006 signora orologio al quarzo[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]SerieBAIGNOIRE Series Stile Forma...€8,269.85 €170.31Risparmi: 98% sconto[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Acquista

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    Le novità di giugno - Di lusso orologi di marca[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Concord - 0311008 donna orologio al quarzo serie al quarzo
    Replica Concord - 0311008 donna orologio al quarzo serie al quarzo€5,261.01 €176.53Risparmi: 97% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Concord - Quarzo Serie 0311014 signora orologio al quarzo
    Replica Concord - Quarzo Serie 0311014 signora orologio al quarzo€2,793.43 €123.65Risparmi: 96% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio al quarzo Replica Concord Delirium-0311005 Uomo[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]€5,959.36 €152.43Risparmi: 97% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Concord - 0311007 donna orologio al quarzo serie al quarzo
    Replica Concord - 0311007 donna orologio al quarzo serie al quarzo€2,941.19 €125.98Risparmi: 96% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Concord - 0311006 donna orologio al quarzo serie al quarzo
    Replica Concord - 0311006 donna orologio al quarzo serie al quarzo€4,174.59 €162.54Risparmi: 96% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio al quarzo-Replica Concord La Scala Serie 0311009 Uomo
    Orologio al quarzo-Replica Concord La Scala Serie 0311009 Uomo€5,739.28 €141.54Risparmi: 98% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Replica Concord Delirium-0311004 Signora orologio al quarzo€5,665.40 €166.42Risparmi: 97% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Concord-La Scala Serie 0311011 signora orologio al quarzo
    Replica Concord-La Scala Serie 0311011 signora orologio al quarzo€2,793.43 €138.43Risparmi: 95% sconto

    Le promozioni del mese di giugno[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC Ingenieur IW323601 IWC-
    Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC Ingenieur IW323601 IWC-€2,392.14 €144.65Risparmi: 94% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC IWC-del Portogallo 1939 serie IW544503
    Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC IWC-del Portogallo 1939 serie IW544503€5,791.38 €142.32Risparmi: 98% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-onde Fino serie 1984 IW544805 uomini€13,849.70 €184.31Risparmi: 99% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro serie uomini IW356801 una
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro serie uomini IW356801 una€1,846.21 €136.87Risparmi: 93% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica IWC IWC-piloti 1936 Series IW325404 uomo orologio meccanico
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    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica IWC orologio meccanico-di Portogallo 1939 Series uomini IW544504 ​​IWC
    Replica IWC orologio meccanico-di Portogallo 1939 Series uomini IW544504 ​​IWC€6,504.52 €160.98Risparmi: 98% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC Ingenieur-uomini IW323604 una
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC Ingenieur-uomini IW323604 una€2,769.32 €145.43Risparmi: 95% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Uomo orologi meccanici, IWC IWC-1939 serie Portoghese IW544505
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    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro automatico IW323104 serie 1967 degli uomini
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro automatico IW323104 serie 1967 degli uomini€5,791.38 €143.87Risparmi: 98% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica orologi da uomo meccanico serie IW356805 IWC IWC-marine
    Replica orologi da uomo meccanico serie IW356805 IWC IWC-marine€1,846.21 €125.21Risparmi: 93% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC Portoghese IW390210 serie
    Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC Portoghese IW390210 serie€4,490.32 €162.54Risparmi: 96% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portofino IW544804 serie 1984 degli uomini
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portofino IW544804 serie 1984 degli uomini€7,134.44 €150.09Risparmi: 98% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica orologi da uomo meccanico serie IW356802 IWC IWC-marine
    Replica orologi da uomo meccanico serie IW356802 IWC IWC-marine€1,468.26 €136.09Risparmi: 91% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portogallo serie uomini IW371417 una
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portogallo serie uomini IW371417 una€2,455.14 €125.21Risparmi: 95% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Replica Uomo meccanico orologi IWC IWC-Portoghese IW390211 serie€4,490.32 €156.31Risparmi: 97% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portogallo serie uomini IW390204 una
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portogallo serie uomini IW390204 una€4,490.32 €169.53Risparmi: 96% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro automatico IW323101 serie 1967 degli uomini
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    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Replica IWC IWC-piloti 1936 Series IW325405 uomo orologio meccanico
    Replica IWC IWC-piloti 1936 Series IW325405 uomo orologio meccanico€13,429.76 €188.98Risparmi: 99% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro automatico IW323103 serie 1967 degli uomini
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC IWC-marine cronometro automatico IW323103 serie 1967 degli uomini€5,036.26 €160.98Risparmi: 97% sconto
    [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portogallo serie uomini IW390206 una
    Orologio meccanico Replica IWC Portogallo serie uomini IW390206 una€4,490.32 €164.09Risparmi: 96% sconto


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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Tiffany Outlet- Sconto Tiffany and Co Gioielli Spedizione gratuita uscita

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:54 am

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    negozi vendono gioielli Tiffanynegozi vendono gioielli Tiffany
    vendere tiffany e co gioielli






    negozi vendono gioielli Tiffanynegozi vendono gioielli Tiffanynegozi vendono gioielli Tiffany
    Tiffany Outlet- Sconto Tiffany and Co Gioielli Spedizione gratuita uscita #sddm { margin: 0 auto; padding: 0; z-index: 30; background-color:#F4F4F4; width: 80px; height:23px; float: right; margin-right: 70px;} #sddm li { margin: 0; padding: 0; list-style: none; float: left; font: bold 12px arial} #sddm li a { display: block; margin: 0 1px 0 0; padding: 4px 10px; width: 60px; background: #EAEAE8; color: #666; text-align: center; text-decoration: none} #sddm li a:hover { background: #49A3FF} #sddm div { position: absolute; visibility: hidden; margin: 0; padding: 0; background: #EAEBD8; border: 1px solid #5970B2} #sddm div a { position: relative; display: block; margin: 0; padding: 5px 10px; width: auto; white-space: nowrap; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; background: #EAEBD8; color: #2875DE; font: 12px arial} #sddm div a:hover { background: #49A3FF; color: #FFF} [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]DeutschDeutsch [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]FrançaisFrançais [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]italianoItaliano [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]EspañolEspañol [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]PortuguêsPortuguês [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]日本語日本語 [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]norwegianNorwegian [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]swedishSwedish [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]NederlandsNederlands [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]finlandFinland [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]irelandIreland [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]EnglishEnglish pagamento | Spedizioni e Consegna | ingrosso | Contattaci Welcome! [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] o registro [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Powered by Zen Cart :: Lo stato dell'arte nel E-CommerceIl carrello è vuoto [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] casa Nuovi Arrivi Tiffany Bangles Tiffany Orecchini [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Contattaci [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Bean collana var widths=960; //设置幻灯片宽度 var heights=430; //设置幻灯片高度 var counts=3; //设置幻灯片数量 //设置图片路径 img1=new Image ();img1.src='includes/templates/polo/images/banner1.jpg'; img2=new Image ();img2.src='includes/templates/polo/images/banner2.jpg'; img3=new Image ();img3.src='includes/templates/polo/images/banner3.jpg'; //设置图片的URL url1=new Image ();url1.src='index.php'; url2=new Image ();url2.src='tiffany-pendants-c-7.html'; url3=new Image ();url3.src='tiffany-rings-c-4.html'; var nn=1; var key=0; function change_img() {if(key==0){key=1;} else if(document.all) {document.getElementById("pic").filters[0].Apply();document.getElementById("pic").filters[0].Play(duration=2);} eval('document.getElementById("pic").src=img'+nn+'.src'); eval('document.getElementById("url").href=url'+nn+'.src'); for (var i=1;i counts){nn=1;} //设置图片切换间隔时间 tt=setTimeout('change_img()',3000);} function changeimg(n){nn=n;window.clearInterval(tt);change_img();} document.write(' '); document.write('.axx{padding:1px 10px;border-left:#cccccc 1px solid;}'); document.write('a.axx:link,a.axx:visited{text-decoration:none;color:#fff;line-height:12px;font:9px sans-serif;background-color:#666;}'); document.write('a.axx:active,a.axx:hover{text-decoration:none;color:#fff;line-height:12px;font:9px sans-serif;background-color:#999;}'); document.write('.bxx{padding:1px 7px;border-left:#cccccc 1px solid;}'); document.write('a.bxx:link,a.bxx:visited{text-decoration:none;color:#fff;line-height:12px;font:9px sans-serif;background-color:#D34600;}'); document.write('a.bxx:active,a.bxx:hover{text-decoration:none;color:#fff;line-height:12px;font:9px sans-serif;background-color:#D34600;}'); document.write(' '); document.write(' '); document.write(' Nuovi Arrivi Tiffany Anelli Tiffany Bangles Tiffany Bracciali Tiffany chiave Anelli Tiffany Ciondoli Tiffany Collane [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Tiffany Denaro Clips Tiffany Orecchini Tiffany Sets Vetrina - [vedi] [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Bean collana
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Bean collana€174.98 €50.55 Risparmi: 71% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Torna a Anello Tag Oval Key Tiffany & Co
    Torna a Anello Tag Oval Key Tiffany & Co€97.21 €39.66 Risparmi: 59% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Torna a Cuore Portachiavi Tiffany & Co Tag
    Torna a Cuore Portachiavi Tiffany & Co Tag€97.21 €39.66 Risparmi: 59% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Cuori doppi Bracciali Grande
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Cuori doppi Bracciali Grande€272.19 €50.55 Risparmi: 81% sconto Promozioni - [vedi] [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Note di Tiffany & Co I Love You Bangle[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]€291.63 €50.55 Risparmi: 83% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co NATURA Daisy bracciale Bangle
    Tiffany & Co NATURA Daisy bracciale Bangle€369.40 €56.77 Risparmi: 85% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Mesh bracciale Bangle
    Tiffany & Co Mesh bracciale Bangle€338.29 €56.77 Risparmi: 83% sconto Le novità di giugno [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo chiave Clover€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo bordo Coin Tag[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo Box Blocco
    Tiffany & Co ciondolo Box Blocco€244.97 €49.77 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Atlas ciondolo
    Tiffany & Co Atlas ciondolo€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Blue Heart Key Ciondolo Charm[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo Blue Ice Skate
    Tiffany & Co ciondolo Blue Ice Skate€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Atlas ciondolo[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo Comb
    Tiffany & Co ciondolo Comb€244.97 €48.99 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo medaglione Atlas
    Tiffany & Co ciondolo medaglione Atlas€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Atlas ciondolo
    Tiffany & Co Atlas ciondolo€244.97 €50.55 Risparmi: 79% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo Cube Atlas
    Tiffany & Co ciondolo Cube Atlas€244.97 €50.55 Risparmi: 79% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Bow Collana
    Tiffany & Co Bow Collana€244.97 €49.77 Risparmi: 80% sconto Prodotti in vetrina [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Frank Gehry pesce orecchini[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]€252.75 €50.55 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Farfalla Collana di Charme
    Tiffany & Co Farfalla Collana di Charme€244.97 €56.77 Risparmi: 77% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Bean collana
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Bean collana€174.98 €50.55 Risparmi: 71% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Sevillana Cinque Bracciale
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Sevillana Cinque Bracciale€252.75 €50.55 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Tiffany & Co Etoile Ciondolo Diamante€244.97 €50.55 Risparmi: 79% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti ciondolo Croce
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti ciondolo Croce€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Return To Tiffany & Co Cuore Tag Bracciale inciso Toggle
    Return To Tiffany & Co Cuore Tag Bracciale inciso Toggle€229.42 €50.55 Risparmi: 78% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Piazze Tiffany & Co Aperto orecchini pendenti
    Piazze Tiffany & Co Aperto orecchini pendenti€272.19 €50.55 Risparmi: 81% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Collane Lariat Feather Set
    Tiffany & Co Collane Lariat Feather Set€388.84 €76.99 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Carat Ciondolo Rosa€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co 1837 Braccialetto
    Tiffany & Co 1837 Braccialetto€272.19 €50.55 Risparmi: 81% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co 1837 Ciondolo in
    Tiffany & Co 1837 Ciondolo in€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Tiffany & Co Cuore Ciondolo mamma Tag€244.97 €48.22 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Teardrop Orecchini
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Teardrop Orecchini€252.75 €50.55 Risparmi: 80% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Orecchini Perle
    Tiffany & Co Orecchini Perle€116.65 €42.77 Risparmi: 63% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Mini doppio ciondolo cuore tag
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    Tiffany & Co Palomas Tenerezza Anello Cuore€194.42 €50.55 Risparmi: 74% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Starfish Set
    Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Starfish Set€439.39 €76.99 Risparmi: 82% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co Carved Orecchini cuore
    Tiffany & Co Carved Orecchini cuore€233.30 €48.22 Risparmi: 79% sconto [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Tiffany & Co ciondolo Cube Atlas
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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:52 pm





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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty De moda Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas M42027 Bolsas - €154.76 : replica louis vuitton, louisvuittontopsales.com

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:52 pm


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    Louis Vuitton Mahina cuero Bolsas L M95976€1,059.98 €159.42 Ahorre: 85% descuento casa :: Louis Vuitton Monogram Bolsas :: De moda Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas M42027 Bolsas De moda Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas M42027 Bolsas .jqzoom{ float:left; position:relative; padding:0px; cursor:pointer; width:301px; height:342px; }" $(document).ready(function(){ $(".jqzoom").jqueryzoom({ xzoom: 282, //zooming div default width(default width value is 200) yzoom: 282, //zooming div default width(default height value is 200) offset: 5, //zooming div default offset(default offset value is 10) position: "right", //zooming div position(default position value is "right") preload:1, lens:1 }); $("#jqzoomimages").jqzoomimages({ sImgList: ["images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-1.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-2.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-3.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-4.jpg"], lImgList: ["images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-1.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-2.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-3.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-4.jpg"], vImgList: ["images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-1.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-2.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-3.jpg","images//lv_bag02/Louis-Vuitton/Louis-Vuitton-Fashion-Monogram-Canvas-Bags-M42027-4.jpg"], pageNo: 1, pagesize: 4, imgWidth: 55, imgHeight: 55, bigImageId: "jqzoomimg" }); }); [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]De moda Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas M42027 Bolsas [url=http://www.louisvuittontopsales.com/es/de-moda-louis-vuitton-monogram-canvas-m42027-bolsas-p-201.html][You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]De moda Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas M42027 BolsasAmpliar imagen €1,010.98 €154.76 Ahorre: 85% descuento Añadir al carro: Product Description Louis Vuitton Monogram Moda M42027 Bolsas Bolsas de BAXTER PM , Louis Vuitton M42027 , ideal para llevar una mascota con la elegancia, las Bolsas de Baxter GM puede tener un perro que pese hasta 20 kilos/44 pounds.Compact y fabricado en lona Monogram , que cuenta con una alfombra lavable y un bolsillo externo. Lona Monogram , forro de tela encerada de poliamida , de recortes de piel de vaca natural Piezas de latón dorado Cierre con cremallera con roll-up lados Correa interna de corto, salidas de aire Bolsillo externo con cierre de Para llevar al hombro , correas fuertes y planos para facilitar su transporte ( puede mantener a un perro que pesen hasta 20 libras kilos/44 ) Extraíble y acolchada alfombra Tamaño : 13.8 "x 10.4" x 6.5 " Bienvenido a tienda de Louis Vuitton en línea . Esta Louis Vuitton salida siempre te ofrece cada los diferentes tipos de bolsas baratos de moda Louis Vuitton . Y usted puede obtener el precio al por mayor , incluso de comprar sólo una louis vuitton bolsos baratos . Todos están en todo el mundo de envío gratis ! 5-8 días de entrega [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas Moda Bolsas M0156
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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:52 pm

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:53 pm

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:53 pm


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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:53 pm

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    Windom SV Lite version coming before new year - Page 8 Empty Re: Windom SV Lite version coming before new year

    Post by ymnyla Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:53 pm

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